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Apie visus matytus majus

Buvo jau pas mus
blog’e, kaip kažkas pasakė, “gamtos pasaulyje”, dabar bus “majų pasaulyje”. Majų
civilizacija - mums egzotiška ir mistiška. Pirmiausia dėl to, kad visi majai
gyveno kitoje žemės pusėje, o antriausia, dėl to, kad net ir šiuolaikiniai
istorijos ir archeologijos mokslų pasiekimai negali atsakyti daugelio su majais
susijusių klausimų. Ir aišku, kad pats svarbiausias tų klausimų – kodėl pačiam
savo žydėjime viskas ėmė ir nunyko.

Daug labai teorijų
apie tai. Populiariausios ir moksliškiausios majų civilizacijos žuvimą sieja su
žmonių pertekliumi miestuose, maisto resursų problema bei gamtos stichijom. Ne
kaži kiek skiriasi nuo mūsų šiandienos: milijonai benamių, skurdžių ir
badaujančių, kurie vis dar dauginasi, pasaulinė maisto krizė, o prie viso to
potvyniai, uraganai, cunamiai ir sausros – kam ko labiausiai ,,reikia”.

Pasivaikščiojimą po
majų civilizacijos liekanas pradėjom dar Hondūre, Copan mieste, šalia pat
sienos su Gvatemala. II – IX a. čia buvo kažkas tarsi svarbiausias miestas
regione. Tiesa, labai aukštų piramidžių ar dar kokių architektūrinių stebuklų
Copane nėra, o nuo kitų majų miestų jį skiria didelis visokiausių raižinių ant
akmens palikimas.

Kažkur XII a. miestas
buvo apleistas, beliko keli ūkininkai, plušantys savo laukuose aplink.
Džiunglėm nereikėjo daug laiko, kad suryt viską, kas aplink, todėl Copaną iš
naujo atrado tik XVIII a. viduryje, kai keli amerikiečiai išleido iliustruotą
knygutę apie savo keliones po Centrinę Ameriką. Vargu ar kas nors įdomaus ten
matėsi tuose iliustracijuose, kažkiek ir fantazijos reikėjo, bo užžėlęs
džiunglėmis miestas neatrodo niekaip. Kusptai ir plytų krūvos.

Archeologai sako,
kad rajone (kurio plotas apie 145 km²) yra puspenkto tūkstančio visokių pastatų
ir gyveno ten koks 20 tūkst. žmonių. Šiuo metu atkasta ir paremontuota tik
pagrindinė miesto dalis, t.y. svarbiausia aikštė su svarbiausiom piramidėm,
paminklais, karalių raižiniais ir t.t.

Manoma, kad miesto
įkūrėjas yra karalius prašmatniu vardu – Didysis saulės karalius paukštis
papūga. Spėjama, kad karaliaus būta labai galingo šamano, todėl vėlesni
valdovai miesto įkūrėją sudievino ir manėsi esantys pusdievio palikuoniais. Ir nieko
čia blogo tame nėra. Vienas paskutinių Gediminaičių, karts nuo karto
prašliaužiantis Pilies gatve ir besivadinantis kunigaikščiu Urniežiumi,
neabejotinai turi mėlyno pusdievio kraujo.

Copan griuvėsiai ir
dabar atlieka daugiau nei archeologinės svarbos vaidmenį, čia karts nuo karto
susirenka kuo nors nepatenkinti vietiniai majai, užsibarikaduoja, neleidžia
turistų ir ko nors reikalauja iš valdžios. Dėl tokių protesto akcijų Copano,
kaip turistų lankomos iškasenos, darbo laikas yra sutrikęs ir lankytoju
sulaukiama vis mažiau.

Bet net ir tuo
atveju jei pagrindiniuose griuvesiuose sėdi užsibarikadavę majai, galima paėjėt
kelis km toliau ir apžiūrėt to meto kilmingųjų namus. Ten, tiesa, jokiu
piramidžių išvis nėra, šiaip tik namai namukai, kurių stogus ir interjerą reik
įsivaizduot pasitelkus visą savo fantaziją.

Bet iš esmės čia visai įdomūs ir
verti dėmesio archeologiniai kasiniai į kuriuos pažiūrėt kažkodėl nevažiuoja
jokie turai. Jei neesi pavargęs nuo ir taip netrumpo pasivaikščiojimo, tai gali
lakstyt pirmyn atgal ir šokinėt per visas sienas ir šiaip išsidirbinėt, kaip
tinkamas, nes niekur nėr nė gyvos dvasios.

Kad nebūtų vien tik
majai, prasiskiesim pasakojimą ugnikalniu. Šitas geras, buvom girdėję iš kažko
dar Pietinėj Amerikoj. Ir šią informaciją vis patvirtindavo pakeliui sutikti
keliauninkai. Ugnikalnis yra Gvatemaloje, netoli Antigua miesto.

Iš ties tai miestas
apsuptas net trim dideliais ugnikalniais ir giedrą dieną panorama visai gražiai
turėtų atrodyt. Bet mūsų vizito Antigua metu iki giedrumo buvo toli gražu.
Tačiau net nematant ugnikalnių negali nepastebėt žemės drebėjimų padarinių.
Visam mieste vargu ar surasi veikiančią bažnyčią. Visos sugriautos. Tarsi koks
Hulkas ateistas prasinešė per miestą.

Ryte važiavom žiūrėt,
kas ten per ugnikalnis, kurio nesimato. Čia nieko nepadarysi, reikia važiuot su
grupe turistų, savarankiškai ir be automobilio nusigaut iki vietos kainuotų ypač
daug laiko. Galima guostis bent tuo, kad atvažiavom vieni pirmųjų, tai dar ne
taip knibždėjo žmonių ant ugnikalnio.

O kopti teko vos ne
iki pat viršaus. Pats pats ugnikalnio viršus yra maždaug trijų km aukštyje, mes
gi užlipom apie du su puse. Tada kelias išnyksta ir reikia eiti per sustingusią
lavą paskui gidą be jokio takelio. Paskui gidą pirmiausia dėl to, kad tas turi
radijos ragelį ir jam žmonės iš stebėjimo stoties praneša, kurioj vietoj veržiasi
lava, kad turistai galėtų į ją paspoksot. Ten visa minia ir traukia. Iš pradžių
nieko, bet kiek giliau paėjus pasivaikščiojimo žavumas ima po truputį dingti.
Čia todėl, kad lava po kojomis lūžinėja ir skilinėja. Kaip koks ledas žiemą. O
po ja, toli gražu ne koks nors ledinis ežeriuko vanduo, kuris savaime gal ir
nieko gero, bet su lava lyginant yra visai nebloga alternatyva.

Kitas nemalonus
reikalas yra karštis. Ir taip oras buvo apsniaukęs, be to tokiam aukštyje yra
žvarbu, o čia toks jausmas tarsi po keptuvę vaikščiotum. Dar dūmai iš visų
žemės skylių rūksta. O ir batų padai svyla. Čia tik vargšam šunim patinka,
kurie ateina slėptis nuo šalčio. Šildoma lova seniems kaulams neregėta
prabanga, prieinama tik Gvatemalos vargetom.

Ėjom kol galiausiai
priėjom. Raudonos lavos upė, lygiai tokia, kokią per teliką rodė. Bet žiauriai
karšta, veidą svilina kaip reikiant. Čia toks karščio jausmas, kai pasilenki
prie laužo bulvę krapštyt iš žarijų ir jauti kaip antakiai svyla, tik gerokai
intesyvesnis. Bet įmanoma prieit visai arti, taip arti kad net įmerkt ilgesnį
pagalį į upę gali. Tas užsiliepsnoja aišku ir tame didelis smagumas.

Dar vieną vietą
norėjom apžiūrėt Gvatemaloje ir ta jau susijusi su majais. Per vieną dieną teko
pervažiuot beveik visą šalį, Santa Elena yra miestas netoli sienos su Meksika.
Ten yra toks ežeras, tame ežere yra sala, kuri vadinasi Flores (ispaniškai –
Gelės), ten dažniausiai apsistoja turistai, kurie susiruošia aplankyt, sako,
vieną įspūdingiausių, majų griuvenų – Tikal.

Kartu sako, kad
visas tas įspūdis yra dėl to, kad Tikalas yra palyginus nedaug restauruotas ir
iškastas iš po džiunglių glėbio, tad galimybė išvysti griuvesius taip, kaip
juos matė pirmieji europiečiai ir išskiria Tikalą iš kitų žymių majų miestų
liekanų. Štai mes ir kėlėmės labai anksti tam, nuo vienos iš piramidžių
pažiūrėtume stebuklingai gražų saulėtekį džiunglėse.

Kad jau saulė
patekėjo, tai galim pakalbėt apie miestą, kas čia per vienas. Juolab, kad ėjom
su turo grupe, su gidu, tad šiokių tokių istorijų prisigaudėm. Kaip kad, kokie
šaunūs ir gudrūs inžinieriai buvo tie majai. Visą miestą jie pasistatė ant
didžiulės milžiniškos akmeninės platformos, o ir piramidės jūjų aukštos, kai
kurios per 60 metrų. Prieš beveik du tūkstančius metų, be dyzelinio krano, juk
sunku buvo tokias konstrukcijas suregzti.

O suklestėjo
Tikalas, nes kažkur IV a. viduryje vietinis super žinys – karalius Didžioji
Jaguaro Letena įdiegė neregėtą karinę naujovę – ietį, todėl priešus nukariaudavo
dar jiems nenubėgus iki pėstininkų linijų. Manoma, kad kažkur VI a. Tikalo
rajone gyveno per 100 tūkst. žmonių, tad čia būta žiauriai didelio miesto.
Juolab, kad didžiojo XX a. karaliaus, Nikitos Vilko Ilties Chruščiovo dar
nebuvo, devynaukščiai dar nebuvo išrasti, reiškia gyvenamojo  ploto reikėjo daug.

Kas be ko, gido
pasakojime buvo be galo daug pompos ir pasigerėjimo majų pasiekimais, kaip
antai stebuklingai veikiantys akvedukai, vandens rezervuarai ir visokie kitokie
inžinieriniai stebuklai, kokių net šlovingoji ir pasikėlusi Romos imperija nebuvo
mačiusi. Na, kaip tik tuo metu, kai Tikalas stojosi savo šlovei, po Europą
lakstė Saša Makedonietis, vėliau viso pasaulio užkariautoju apsiskelbęs. Vat ir
nenuėjo jis iki Cetrinės Amerikos. Gal ir gerai, o tai būtų jį čia ietimis
užmėtę, gėda būtų.

Dar vienas
neginčyjamas majų šaunumas yra jų žiaurumas. Jei, štai pavyzdžiui, gidas
pasakojantis apie Inkus Maču Piču, didžiuojasi, kad inkai buvo kultūriškai aukštesniame
lygyje nei majai, nes matai, ne taip žiauriai ir mažiau žmonių aukojo, tai
gidas majų Tikale apie skerdynes ant dieviškojo altoriaus pasakoja kaip apie
kietą reikalą. Kaip aukai subadydavo penį arba perpjaudavo liežuvį arba
kaukolėje pragręždavo daugybę mažų skylučių.

Vat čia kažkam ant šito
akmens gyvam širdį išlupo. Va tai tau gerumas. Prie šitos temos dar reikės
grįžti, o nuotraukoje, Danieliui po dešine ir yra minėti altoriai.

Kad ir kokie gudrūs
ir galingi majai bebūtų, Tikalą maždaug IX a. ištiko tas pat likimas, kaip ir
visus likusius galingosios civilizacijos miestus. Ėmė ir nunyko. Spėjama, kad
didejant žmonių skaičiui miestuose, tam, kad prasimanyt daugiau maisto teko
užsėt didesnius plotus žemės, o tai laikui bėgant išvirto į žemės eroziją, žemė
nusistekeno, ėmė kankinti potvyniai, ligos ir galiausiai ėmė rimtai trūkti
maisto. Kad jau kiti metropoliai išgyveno labai panašų likimą, maisto importuot
greičiausiai tiesiog nebuvo iš ko.

Pačioje pradžioje
pasidalinom pastaba apie tai, kaip majų saulėlydžio išvakarės primena nūdieną.
Tos pačios problemos. Dabar reik įpilt mistikos į košę. Negana to, kad buvo
labai gerais inžinieriais, majai buvo ne ką blogesniais astronomais, sekė
žvaigždes, žinojo planetas, turėjo kuo puikiausią kalendorių iš 365 dienų.
Žodžiu, astronominiais klausimais pasiekimai buvo ne ką menkesni, nei kokių
egiptiečių ar  persų, ar graikų. Tik dar vienas dalykas, kad
majai istoriją suprato cikliškai – dievai pasaulį sukuria ir ciklui pasibaigus
sunkaikina, ciklas trunka 5200 metų, ir pasak majų kalendoriaus, mes dabar
gyvenam ketvirtam cikle, kuris pasibaigs 2012 gruodžio 23 d. Gal ir gerai, kad
ne tiek daug laukt beliko.

Kita senovinė įžymybė,
apie kurią papasakosim, yra Meksikoje. Kažkaip kelionės metu aplankėme nemažai
majų griuvėsių, nors tikrai neturėjom planų tam skirti ypatingo dėmesio. Dar
būdami Gvatemaloje atsisakėm minties keliaut žeme per Meksiką iki pat sienos su
JAV, nes tada kelionė užsitestų ilgiau nei planuota. Visokių variantų
beieškodami nusprendėm skristi į Los Angeles ir iš ten pratęsti kelionę po
valstijas. Pigiausi bilietai į LA buvo ne iš Gvatemalos, ne iš Belizes, o iš
Meksikos kurorto Cancun. Iki ten ir patraukėm, pakeliui užkabindami dar vieną
senovies miestą – Palenque.

Palyginus su Coapan
arba Tikal, apie kuriuos ką tik pasakojom, šitie griuvėsiai tikrai kuklūs
plotu, bet niekaip nenusileidžia didybe. Tiesa, Palenque klestėjo kiek vėliau,
maždaug VII a., kuomet ten gyveno apie 8000 žmonių, o miestą valdė karalius
Gyvatė Jaguaras. Gyvatės Jaguaro ir jo tėvo mauzoliejus ir yra tai, dėl ko
Palenque žymus beigi labai sutvarkytas senovės majų miestas, mat palyginus
neseniai – 1952 m. abiejų turtingos kapavietės ir buvo atrastos. O pats
mauzoliejus labai jau primena tą, kuris Maskvoje, arba tą, kur Hanojuje,
Vietname. Kažkas archetipiško žmonijos pasamonėje su tais mauzoliejais.

Vieta miestui
parinkta labai graži, žmonės su gamtišku polėkių musėt buvo. Dar vietą
patrauklia daro tai, kad čia po šiokius tokius tunelius ir po akropolio
griuvenas galima pasivaikščiot daugiau mažiau laisvai, o ne žvilgčiojant per
tvorą. Taip santykis su istorija, archologiniu paveldu ir amžinybės didybe yra
glaudesnis. Negalima sakyt, aišku, kad atsigulus ant kažkokio senovės majo
lovos jo kambaryje aplanko koks nors intesyvus išgyvenimas, bet kažkoks
išgyvenimas yra.

Palenque struktūra
labai aiški, net archeologiškai neišprususia akimi matosi pastatų paskirtis,
aišku, kad ten kur lovos buvo miegamieji, ten kur bokštas - greičiausiai kad buvo
observatorija, aplink reiškia, kas būta administracinės burtininkų patalpos. Gal
kažkoks universitetas.

Ir čia dar
nepabaiga su majų miestais. Dar vienas, labai mažiuliukas, bet labai daug
lankytojų sulaukiantis – Tulum. Apie šį juokaujama, kad kiekvienas kaimietis
svajojo būti išsiųstas darbams į Tulumą. Pastatyt piramidę kokią vieną kitą.
Šiais laikais specialaus paskyrimo nereikia laukti, galima nuvažiuot patiems,
bet vargu ar pagrindinis kelionės tikslas bus griuvėsiai. Minios čia plaukia
pasidžiaugt smaragdinio vandens Karibų jūra, pilvą svilinant ant pieno baltumo
smėlio.

Nors ir nekaži
kokios čia tos miesto liekanos, pastarojo būta visai svarbiu uostu. Vienu iš
tų, tarp kita ko, aplink kuriuos plaukiodami ispanai svarstė, kas gi pastatė
šitas sienas ir ar galingi čia gyvena žmonės. Čia reikia pasakyt, kad po
majų vardu telpa daugybė genčių, kurios tarp savęs gal neturi tiek daug bendro,
kaip gal gali atrodyt. Nebuvo didelės ir vientisos majų imperijos su
centralizuotu valdymu, gyveno (ir net iki šiol tebegyvena) daug genčių su
skirtingom kalbom, skirtingom tradicijom, prekiavusios tarpusavyje ir vargo
nemačiusios. Kad jau civilizacijos didybės vargas ištiko, tai tas buvo
nepaskutinis. Gal majai ir būtų atsigavę, bet kelią į Ameriką Kolumbas jau buvo
suradęs. O daugelį majų misionieriai į teisingas tikėjimo vėžias įstatė be
vargo, jei paviršutiniškai žiūrint, tai krikščionybė puikiai buvo suprantama ir
Amerikoje. Kai kurios gentys jau gyveno apokaliptinėmis nuotaikomis ir laukė
mesijo. Vienas toks, tūlas ispanas plieniniais šarvais, šviesiais plaukais, mėlynom
akim ir dar raitas ant demono puikiai atitiko pranašystę. Buvo vietinių
sudievintas, pagarbintas ir … garbinamas iki šiol. Tiesa, jo gyvenimas jau
apipintas gėlytėmis iš kitų pasakų, kad dieviškesnis būtų.

Pati mintis apie
mesiją nebuvo svetima ir tiems majams, kurie negarbino minėto ispanų
kolonizatoriaus. Tad istorija apie mesijo nukankinimą ant kryžiaus nebuvo
anokia naujovė. Tą jie patys praktikavo. Jei jau derlius blogas kelinti metai
ir šiaip nesiseka, kokį žynį peiliu suraityt ant altoriaus visai verta. Ir čia
toli gražu nieko gėdingo, žyniui buvo garbė tapti tokia auka, jo vardas -
užrašytas, o atminimas pagarbintas ateities kartų. Paralelės su nukryžiuotu
Jėzum čia pačios peršasi. Na, teisybės dėlei, reik tarti, kad išdėstytos mintys
yra spekuliatyvios ir labai “davinčiakodiškos”.

Tulumo smėlis ir
Karibų jūra patys savaime tokie pakankamai žinomi dalykai. Štai, kad ir
praeitam įraše vienas komentatorius giria Tulumą. Na, galim pagirt ir mes. Tik
čia lazda su dviem galais. Blogasis galas yra apie tai, kad čia labai daug
amerikiečių, kaip ir kitur Meksikoje. Kainos aukštos, paslaugų lygis žemas. Tad
gražiu paplūdymiu džiaugtis sudėtinga. Be to, kaip visur daug žmonių, tai
grožis kažkaip išblėsta. Šiaip, Karibai neišsemiami grožiu, geriu ir baltu
smėliu ir kur pirštu besi visur yra labai gerai. O tas gėris neatsiejamas nuo
nardymo. Tulumas žymus nardymu uolose, mat visas pusiasalis tarp Karibų jūros
ir Meksikos įlankos yra tokios struktūros, kaip koks sūris, su tūkstančiais
kilometrų besitęsiančiom uolom.

Tam, kad nardyt
uolose, reikalingas specialus pasiruošimas, bet yra aišku ir tokių, kur visiems
turistams prieinamos. Kai kuriems užtenka tik kaukės su vamzdeliu, o tokiems
kietiems kaip mes, kurie turi naro “teises” galima ir panardyt nenutolstant nuo
atviro vandens šaltinio toliau nei per 20 metrų. Na tai mes ir panardėm. Vanduo
gėlas, skaidresnio dar matyti gyvenime neteko. Kuomet įplaukėm į olas, lengvai
galima užsimiršti, kad plauki ir kad apskritai esi vandeny - taip gerai viskas
matosi. Na, vienas kitas žuviokas ar draugo lastas sugrąžina nuovoką. Išties,
tai viskas labai panašu į paprastą olos lankymą. Stalaktitai, stalagmitai… Čia
visas grožis tose vietose kur per plyšį patenka saulės šviesa, spinduliai
vandenyje lūžta, taip sukurdami neregėto grožio ir ryškumo haliucinaciją.
Paklausėm patarimo iš vieno keliautojo ir nėrėm tik vienoje uoloje. Kad būtų
tik pirmas įspūdis ir nebūtų antro.

Iš Tulumo patraukėm
link Cancuno, iš ten ir bus skrydis į JAV. Net penkiom dienom likom tokioje
mažulytėje, bet tankiai amerikiečių beigi prakutusių meksikiečių nusėstoje
saloje. Labai jau netoli žemyno tas žemės gabalėlis, tad jausmas, kad esi saloje,
taip ir neaplankė. Bet, nakvynė Meksikos kainom pigi, jūra gera, smėlis baltas,
žmonių pakenčiamai. Reikia gi gražiai įdegti prieš nusileidžiant pas
Džordžiką©.

Rodyk draugams

Komentarai (223)

  1. fanas96:

    Sveiki,

    radau si bloga netycia, per daznai minima "gugla". nuosirdziai dziaugiuosi galedamas perskaityti VISKA. Nuo vizu darymo Briuselyje iki dabar.
    Kaip patys sakot - "respect".

    turiu PADI OWD - zinau koks tai kaifas :). Isnardykit kiek imanoma daugiau. Lietuvoje to nepatirti. Blyn, nelysciau is vandens.

    atsidariau trecia alaus..nu taip su skoniu eina sitie pasakojimai. (lengvas ir banalus) pavydas, kumsciu laikymas ir..

    tiesa sakant, pagalvojau, kad kai grisit i Lietuva reiketu jums surengi kokia spaudos konferencija ar siaip "myta" kabake. Manau ne vienas komentatorius noretu ko nors paklaust. Keep going chebryte..

    p.s. kadangi sis blgoas tapo lengvu realybes sou, tai kokie santykiai jus sieja :) ?

    Iki greito ?!:)

  2. Smalsi:

    Ispudziai puikus :) Tik plaukiojote tikriausiai olose, o ne uolose? ;)

  3. Smalsi yra labai teisi :) Pasitaiko tų klaidų, jau ne pirmą kart, stengiamės kad jų butų mažiau, bet vat ne visad gaunasi :)
    fanas, tu čia mūsų fanas?:) Gryžę važiuosim į aukštaitijos nac. parką prie ežero, ten ir surengsim vieną kitą spaudos konferenciją. Klausimus komentatoriai paštu siunčia, kaip ir prasymus akreditacijai. Reiks gi pasiruošt atsakymus ir visa kita…
    Mus sieja geri, tinkami gyventi kartu santykiai. Jau metus besitesiantis "realybės šou" santykių gerumą patvirtina ;)

  4. fanas96:

    nevisai, cia mano nickas. ilga istorija..;)

    o kalbant apie si bloga - tapau savotiskas fanas:). uzsuku kas 2-3 dienas paziuret GAL JAU paraset kazka naujo :).

    ok. laukiam ziniu, o paskui ir spaudos konferencijos.

    gero vejo

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