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Argentina. Puerto Madryn ir Bariloche

Judėjom toliau į
Puerto Madryn, vietovardis niekam nieko, aišku, nesako, todėl reik pasakyt, jog
tas miestelis yra ant Argentinos jūros (o tai yra beveik tas pats, kas Ramusis
vandenynas) kranto ir tuo metu, kai mes atvažiavom, ten buvo beprasidedanti
žiema. Vis vien buvo kiek šilčiau nei pietuose, bet iš striukių dar, šiukštu,
nelindom.

Bet tai ne apie striukes čia, apie pusiasalį gražiu vardu – Valdes.
Beveik Valdas. Pusiasalis labai patinka visokiems gyvūnams, jie čia renkasi
gyventi, žmonės čia renkasi jų žiūrėti. Galima sakyti, kad atvažiavom į
susirinkimą. Pusiasalis nuo miesto nutolęs per 200 km ir iki ten galima
nusigaudi arba nusipirkus turą, arba išsinuomavus automobilį. Kainų skirtumas
nebuvo toks didelis, tad nuomavomės pačią pigiausią mašiną už pačią pigiausią
kainą. Šiaip jau, nėra taip pigu – apie 150 Lt dienai, t.y. tiek pat, kiek
Europoje. Užtat benzas kainuoja ne tiek pat. Argentinoje benziną vadina
“nafta”, tad mūsų išnuomuotas žvėris buvo maitinamas “nafta super” (greičiausia,
kad tai yra tas pat kas 95 benzinas). Litras super naftos kainuoja maždaug 1,2
Lt. Girdėjom, kad tėvynei jau 3.7 Lt, reiškia Argentinoje tris kart pigiau. Yra
truputį painiavos su automobilių klasėm, jei Europoje Opel Corsa ir bus iš tų
pigiausių auto, lygiuojama kartu su visokiais Fiat Punto, VW Polo, tai čia
Corsa, kaip ir Polo, yra vidutinės klasės automobilis. Pigiausia čia yra Fiat
Uno arba VW Gol, taip taip, ne koks Golf, bet Gol. Tą kart pasisekė - nuomos
punkte nebuvo nei Fiato, nei VW, tad gavom prabangesnę mašiną – Chevrolet Corsa, mat Opelio
markės Pietų Amerikoje nėra.

Kaip ir nėra naujų modelių, prie kurių esam
pripratę, čia žmonės vis dar gali įsigyti naują pirmos kartos Corsą, kuriame
nors iš Chevrolet
salonų. Mašina tokia paprasta, kaip iš kokio tele loto, jokios elektros viduje,
išsyrus magelį, ir jokių oro pagalvių. Net tų rankenų, kur prie galvos, nėra.
Bet užtat vairo stiprintuvas buvo, pripylėm super naftos ir traukė visai
neblogai. Didžioji dalis kelio iki pusiasalio buvo ne rožėm klota, bet skalda.
Vienintelė paguoda, kad mašina ne tavo.

Greičiausiai, kad ta pati skalda kalta ir dėl didelės nuomos kainos. O
plika stepė kalta dėl to, kad važiuot iki skausmo nuobodu. Galima nebent
įsivaizduot, kad esi koks indėnas, jojantis per preriją medžioti balto bizono.
Na, jei ne balto bizono, tai gal baltos avies tada. Tų čia nemaža. Dar kartais
koks strutis ar lamos horizonte prabėga.

Kažkas klausė ar
nepastebėjom Kapitono Granto pėdsakų. Pastebėjom. Bet nepastebėjom paties
Granto, kai išbėgo ant kelio… Karas keliuose. Bet atbėgo Vinetu su Montesumos
dukra ir visi kartu užkasėm karo kirvį, surūkėm taikos pypkę ir važiavom toliau
keturiais vėjais genami.
Kai atvažiavom iki vietos,
pirma, ką pamatėm tai tokį keistą ežiuką. Kažkoks senas, praplikęs. Bet visai
greitas ir labai drąsus. Puikiai pažįsta žmonės, žino, kad reikia trintis
kažkur parkinge, tad žiū koks čipsas ar duonos trupinys nukris ir žiū nereiks
ieškot sliekų, kad paėst.

Dar šen bei ten po
parkingo apylinkes lakstė lapė snapė. Truputį tarsi sutrikusi, tarsi
pasimetusi, nelabai susigaudė kas vyksta, jei kas nors vyksta. Pasiblaškiusi
tarp žmonių, lapė nusprendė, kad jų reikia bijoti ir pabėgo.

Jau tiek visokių
žvėrių prisižiūrėję galvojom eiti maudytis į jūrą, jau beveik buvom nuėję iki paplūdimio
ir Danielius jau viena koja buvo maudymosi kostiume, kai netoli kranto pamatėm
lėtai vandenį skrodžiantį peliaką.

“Ai, na ką čia tas peliakas, matyt kokia
lydeka ar jūros ešerys čia plaukia” pamanė Danielius ir jau beveik nusimetė
striukę, kad bristi per kopą link vandens. Bet čia pasirodė, kad visas smėlis
okupuotas ruonių, tie šiepia dantis ir šiaip atrodė nervingi.

Maudynių teko
atsisakyt, bet ir be to gerai leidom laiką žiūrėdami ruonius, pelekus ir
programos apie gyvūnus operatorius, kurie kažkur labai toli, pasislėpę
apkasuose su didžiuliausiais objetyvais, tykojo, kol pelekų savininkai šoks į
krantą medžioti ruonių.

Pelekų išvis matėm gal kokius septynis. Dauguma jų
nedidukai, kokio delfino dydžio žuviokų, bet vienas peliakas buvo gal kokios
“mamos”. Ten tai gera žuvis. T.y žinduolis. (neesam tikri kaip lietuviškai bus
killing whale (orca) – orka?).

Kokią valandą pasibastėm pirmyn atgal palei
krantą, taip niekas ruonių ir neužpuolė, o dar po kurio laiko, nuo paviršiaus
dingo ir žuvų šešeliai, ir peliakai. Bet ir tai labai džiaugemės visai iš arti
pamatę didžiules, juodas, piktas orkas, aštriais dantukais.

Sėdom į mašiną ir
nulekėm toliau palei pakrantę ieškoti pingvinų. Radom. Šie pingvinai, tam kad
būtų baisesni ir kad juos labiau gerbtų, yra tokių pat spalvų, kaip ir orkos.

Taigi mes laikėmės pagarbaus kelių metrų atstumo, o jie nekreipė jokio dėmesio
į du žioplius su fotoaparatu.

Kiekvienas pingvinas turėjo kokių nors reikalų:
mankštinti sparnus, kasytis, pešiotis plunksnas, gąsdinti ar aiškintis santykius
su kitais pingvinais.

Prisibendravę iki soties su juodai baltais vandens
skrajūnais važiavom toliau, nes iki pilnos programos tetrūko jūros dramblio.
Neišprususiai akiai, tai tas pats, kas ruonis, tik didesnis ir sunkesnis
padaras su didelia nosim. Patinai sveria iki keturių tonų. Švelnioji lytis,
švelniai lengvesnė ir nepriauga daugiau nei tonos. Tarp kita ko, šitie padarai
yra vieni geriausių narų planetoje – ieškodami maisto neria net į kilometro
gylį, dar giliau gali nebent banginiai. Kaip tik tada, kai mes važinėjomės po
fauna gausia pakrantę, matyt visi drambliai buvo panėrę ar kur kitur su savais
reikalais dingę, iš arti nematėm nė vieno. Kaip tik už Danieliaus nugraros
nuotraukoje turėjo būti didžiausia jūros dramblių kolonija, bet be kelių
miegančių ruonių nieko daugiau nesutikom.

Šiaip jau didžiausią
žmonių tauką šitas pusiasalis turi nei dėl ruonių, nei dėl jūros drablių,
pingvinų ir netgi ne dėl orkų ar praplikusių ežiukų. Vasarą (t.y. tada kai
Patagonijoje vasara, pas mus kalėdos) čia atplaukia banginiai, kurie gal nėra
labai jau dideli (maždaug suaugusios orkos dydžio), bet užtat parodo gerokai
daugiau savęs nei kad tik peliakas ar uodega, nes kaip kokie delfinai šokinėja
iš vandens. Na, be šitie banginiai čia būna tik kelis mėnesius per metus,
paskutiniai išplaukia vasarį, tad kai mes čia atvažiavom jų pėdos (pelekai) jau
ataušusios buvo. Na, gal kitą kartą…

Toliau važiuojam
dar labiau į šiaurę - į Bariloche miestą. Dabar šiek tiek apie tai, kaip mums
nesisekė. Argentina nėra tokia maža šalis, kaip kad kai kurie gali manyti.
Atstumai taip pat nemaži. Geležinkelio tinklo nėra, todėl pagrindinė
susisiekimo priemonė – autobusas. Autobusai tikrai nėra blogi, visi iki vieno
vienodi, čia nelabai aišku kodėl, bet visi jie vienodai atrodo. Nors gali būt
parašyta Mercedes, Volvo ar Scania visi jie vienodi, dviaukščiai autobusai.
Pirmam aukšte dažniausiai būna būna “pirma klasė”, t.y. sėdynės platesnės,
labiau atsilenkia ir yra mažiau vietų. Mes visad taip ir važiuojam, juolab, kad
kainų skirtumas tikrai nedidelis, o atstumai dažniausiai nusidriekia ilgėliau
nei dešimčiai valandų kelio. Iš Puerto Madryn iki Bariloche turėjo būti 15 val.
kelionė, pasirinkom važiuoti naktį, kad kelionė greičiau praeitų. Bet apie
pirmą nakties autobusas sugedo – nutrūko kažkoks diržas. Laukėm meistrelio.
Laukėm kažkokiam gudžioje pakelės užeigėlėje, o gal ten net ne užeiga, o troba
kažkieno, nieko gero vienžo.

Meistrelis taip ir neatvažiavo, bet apie ketvirtą
ryto kitas autobusas sustojo padėti nelaimėje ir davė naują diržą. Gerai, kad
ne vieną, nes autikas sudraskė dar tris diržus kol galiausiai atvažiavom iki
miesto, kur turėjom persėsti į kitą autobusą. Persėdom, tas nenuvažiavo daugiau
penkių km nuo stoties ir sugedo. Kažkas blogai su ratais. Dar kelias valandas
laukėm kol pakeitė autobusą. Vargais negalais, po 25 val. kelyje, atvažiavom.
Dešimtą vakare reikėjo susirasti nakvynę. Susiradom, nebuvo taip sunku, bet abu
purtėmės nuo kelioninės kilmės nervinių traukulių.

Miegas padėjo, išlindom
žiūrėti kur mes čia atvažiavom.

Miestas labai turistinis, yra kelios
pagrindinės gatvės, prifarširuotos suvenyrų krautuvėmis. Dar šitas miestas
vadinamas Argentinos šokolado sostine, todėl ant kiekvieno kampo yra po
didžiausias šokolado parduotuves. Atrodo skaniai, todėl užėjom paragaut į
vieną. Bet ne viskas auksas, kas pelenuose žiba. Tas šokoladas, kur bobikės iš
Baltarusijos pardavinėdavo prie Halės turgaus ir tai geresnis, nei tas kurį
ragavom. Jei kam neteko ragaut kontrabandinio Baltarusiško skanėsto, lai
nusiperka kokioj norfoj 200 g plytelę už litą, bet ne brangiau, ir bus aišku
apie ką eina kalba. Na, arba mumi vėl nepasisekė arba mes neesam tikri
,,gurmanai”.

Bariloche neturi
“kozerio”, kurio visi važiuotų žiūrėt, čia nėr nei bangnių, nei ledynų.
(neskaitant tų, kalnų viršūnėse). Turistai čia viliojami labai gražia gamta.
Bariloche kažkuria prasme galima lyginti su Molėtų ežerais. Ten irgi graži
gamta, bet jau nebe tie laikai, kai gali kažkur nuvažiuot ir išsimaudyt. “Privata Propiertada” yra
visur, kur tik nori statyti koją. Vilos, viešbučiai, spa ir vėl vilos, tada
restoranai, kempingai ir vėl restoranai.

Netoliese Bariloche
yra išsidriekęs nacionalinis parkas, vienas labiausiai lankomų visoje
Argentinoje. Važiavom pažiūrėt kas ten tokio. Nuomavomės automobilį, šį kart
jau gavom VW Gol. Auto su maksimaliai asketišku interjeru ir šį kart dar ir be
vairo stiprintuvo. Važiavom, sustodavom kokiai nuotraukai ar šiaip paspoksot,
nes tikrai labai gražu. Kalnai, ežerai ir viskas ko reikia, kad akys būtų
sočios. Jau buvom išpuikę dėl labai gerai sužymėtų pėsčiųjų takų Naujojoje
Zelandijoje, labai pasigedom kokių nors gairių šitam parke.

Buvo šiokių tokių
nuorodų, bet neišsamių, t.y. parašyta, kad štai kelias į gražią panoramą,
tačiau kur ta panorama ar kiek laiko eiti iki jos - nežinia. Taip ir
klaidžiojom pora valandų kažkokiais bambukiniais tuneliais, ieškodami to, ką
čia reikėtų pamatyt.

Tikslo nepasiekę, o gal jo neradę, grįžom prie mašinos ir
važiavom toliau. Šiaip smagu, nesudėtinga ir gražu buvo pasivažinėt. Sustoji
kažkokioj pievoj užkąsti, atbėga kažkoks šuo paprašaika, viskas labai gerai.

Tai kas nelabai gerai jau rašėm – už parko tvoros prasideda: viešbutis, vila,
restoranas, baseinas, privačios teritorijos ir t.t.

Jau visiškai
temstant dar nulekėm prie krioklio, nelabai didelis tas krioklys, bet vistiek
krioklys. Dar spėjom nusifotkint be blykstės, o kai grįžom iki mašinos jau buvo
visai sutemę.

Pikti ant autobusų,
nusprendėm iš Bariloche iki Buenos Aires skristi. Juolab, kad važiavimo turėjo
būti 20 val, o skrydžio vos dvi. Rado pigius bilietus su vietine oro bendrove.
Skridom kažkokiam mažam, labai senam lėktuve ir viskas būtų buvę beveik gerai,
bet vėlavom penkias valandas. O vėlavom dėl to, kad Buenos Aires buvo
paskendusios rūke. Tiksliau ne rūke, bet dūmuose, nes kažkokie fermeriai padegė
savo laukus ir taip uždūmyjo visą miestą su 13 milijonų gyventojų.
Automagistralės uždarytos dėl blogo matomumo, keliuose avarija per avariją. Oro
uostas, kuriam turėjom nusileisti, skendėjo dūmuose, mūsų kukurūzinkas greičiausiai
neturėjo tinkamos įrangos, kad nutūpti tokiomis salygomis, tad kokią valandą
vis sukom ratus, kol galiausiai nusileidom kažkur už 30 km nuo miesto, net ne
oro uoste, o kažkokioj bazėj. Tada atvažiavo autobusas ir nuvežė mus į tą oro
uostą, kuriame mes ir turėjome būti jau prieš penkias valandas. Iš ten krapštemės
link Buenos Aires centro.

Rodyk draugams

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