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Buenos Aires ir Smogas

Štai pavyzdžiui
Lonely Planet gide parašyta, kad BA yra pats geriausias (gal gražiausas)
miestas visoje Pietų Amerikoje, ką jau čia kalbėt vien apie Argentiną. Sunku
mums ginčytis, nedaug mes matėm tos Amerikos. Nedaug matėm ir BA, bent jau
pirmas dvi dienas. Kaimiečių sukeltas smogas kabėjo virš centro, t.y.
tos miesto vietos, kur mes gyvenom ir zujom viso vizito metu.

Per teliką nebuvo
jokių kitų žinių kaip tik apie avarijas dėl blogo matomumo ir uždarytus kelius.
Taip pat pranešė, kad daug žmonių kreipėsi į medikus dėl perštinčių akių ir
kvepavimo takų problemų. Tuo pačiu, žinių vedėjai vis aiškino, kad dūmai yra
nenuodingi bei rimtesnės žalos sveikatai nedaro. Reiktų tuom abejot, aišku, bet
mes likom gyvi, pasekmių jokių nepajutom (išskyrus tai, kad pradvokė visi
rūbai) reiškia dūmai nebuvo super nuodingi…(gal:)

Iš viso BA buvom
tris naktis, labai kažin ko dūminiam mieste nenuveikėm. Na, centrą
išvaikščiojom. Gal tris kartus. Kodėl BA yra tituluotas geriausiu Pietų
Amerikos miestu atsakyt sudėtinga, bet muset, kad įmanoma. Kaip pasakytų dar
prieš Kristaus gimimą žurnalistiką perkandęs A.Čekuolis: “pasvarstykim
popietėje”.

Gal BA yra šitoks
nuostabus miestas dėl to, kad centre labai gražu, didinga ir tikrai niekaip
nesijauti esąs kur toliau už Europos. Gal Madridas koks.

Juolab, kad ir miestų
amžius yra panašus. Kažkada BA buvo tikra skylė, kur rinkosi visokio plauko
plėšikai, piratai ir visas Europos purvas. Indėnams spaudžiat visą purvą prie
jūros, BA ir tapo vienu svarbiausiu uostų ir tiltu į senajį žemyną. Purvo ir
plėšikų BA netrūksta ir dabar, tereikia nukėblint kur tolėliau nuo centro. Čia
baigiasi Europos ataidai ir prasideda vargelis.

Bet ne vien centras yra geras
ir vertas lankymo. Yra bent keli rajonai, kur miesto svečiui reiktų užsukti ir
pasistebėti, koks skirtingas gali būti tas pats miestas. Argi nuostabu, kad
kiekvienas miesto rajonas turi savo ,,nuotaiką”, mieste gyvena kokie šeši
milijonai žmonių, o jei pridėsim dar ir “grigiškes” ar “zujūnus” - tai bus visi
trylika milijonų žmonių. Eilinį kartą, tokie žmonių kiekiai nesuvokiami. Prognozuojama,
kad dar meteliai keli ir lietuvių ant svieto liks nepilni trys milijonai, tai
kur čia tilps tokie skaičiai į mūsų nykstančias galvas.

Dar BA yra geras
miestas dėl to, kad ten yra daug meninkų ir bohemšikų, tie visad puošia miestą
gitaromis ir rankų darbo niekučiais. BA “Užupis” vadinasi San Telmo, jie, kaip
ir broliai bohemos lietuviai, žaidžia “respubliką” respublikoje. Geras rajonas
pasivaikščiot ir paganyt akis į menininkų krautuves, kuriose pilna sunkiai
praktiškai pritaikomų darbo vaisių.

Kitas neabejotinas
BA, kartu ir visos Argentinos, gėris yra beveik sudievintas Diego Maradona. Veikėjas,
neatmenamais laikais (1986) Pasaulio Futbolo Čempionato ketvirtfinalyje, ranka “įmušęs”
įvartį į Anglijos rinktinės vartus. Teisėjas per žioplumą įvartį įskaitė,
anglai išktrito iš tolimesnės kovos čempionate, Argentina laimėjo taurę (kol
kas paskutinę), o Maradonos ranka pakrykštyta “auksine”. Vėliau futbolininkas
įklipmo į visokius kokaino skandalus, bet niekaip neprarado charizmos bei šlovės.
Sutikom šitą seną dievuką gatvėje, bet pritrūko įžūlumo prašyti autografo ar
nuotraukos.

Ai, na ir kas tas Maradona ir jo įvartis kažkokiais tarybiniais
metais. Mes, lietuviai, Argentiną labiau žinom kaip olimpinę krepšinio
konkurentę, kartu ir dabartinio aukso savininkę, kaip ir rinktinę, kuri pirma pasaulyje
patvarkė Dream Team. Deja vietiniai, kiek teko bendraut, nelabai ką nutuokia
apie krepšinį.
Gal net dar žymesnė
persona nei Maradona – Evita. Argentinos diktatoriaus žmona, kovojusi už moterų
teises “mačo” pasaulyje, taip pat visokiomis programomis rėmusi bėdžius ir dėl
to labai pamėgta visuomenėje. Na, Maradona dar gali lakstyti po gatves, Evitai
jau amžiną atilsį. Neperseniausiai dramatiška istorija buvo atgijusi kino
ekranuose, o tam pačiam balkone, toje pačioje aikštėje (nuotraukoje Danieliui
už nugaros) susirinkusiai tautai už širdies griebiančius makaronus kabino tiek
Evita, tiek Madona (iš teliko ekrano žinoma).

Mayo (čia ne majonezo trumpinys,
bet gegužės mėnuo ispaniškai) aikštė yra ta vieta, kur iki šiol žmonės ateina
mitinguot, protestuot, piktintis ar džiaugtis. Kažkas neva M. Mažvydo
bibliotekos laiptų Vilniuje. Kol mes trankemės po BA, Gegužės aikštėje
paklodėmis su šūkiais nuomonę reiškė kažkokie karo veteranai.

Smogas sutrukdė
pamatyti viską, ką BA siūlo turistui. T.y. viskas ką matėm, jei didinga ir
gražu, atrodė pilkai ir bjauriai dėl bjaurių dūmų, kabojusių visur aplink.
Kažkas panašaus kaip Vilniuje rudenį: kažkada skaičiavom, kad saulės per pilką
dangų, rūką ir šlapdribą nebuvo matyti daugiau nei du mėnesius. Tuo metu labai
nesinorėjo gyventi Vilniuje. Per tokį smogą nesinorėjo būti ir BA.

Tiesa,
paskutinę dieną dūmai kažkur dingo. Išlindo saulė ir miestas nušvito visai
kitaip. Bet mums jau reikėjo lėkt, nebuvo kada džiaugtis saule ant asfalto, bo
gamta šaukė. Taigi super pirmos klasės autobusu, su vyno ir viskio taurėmis
rankose (maistas ir gėrimai įprastas dalykas naktiniuose maršrutuose) lėkėm iki
pat Argentinos sienos su Brazilija ir Paragvajumi, kur ten per visas tris šalis
griaudžia Iguazu kriokliai.

Rodyk draugams

Komentarai (47)

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  2. andrius:

    eik tu, jus Maradona matet?!!
    vien del to vaziuociau aplink pasauly…

    :)

    p.s. linkejimai
    (andrius ir neringa)

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