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Pavojingos salos Hondūre

Nikaragvą būtume
perskridę, jei aviaciniai reikalai būtų paprastesni ir pigesni. Iš Kosta Rikos
Monteverde norėjom kuo greičiau atsidurti prie Hondūro Karibų jūros pakrantės,
bet visą atstumą teko įveikti autobusais. Keliauti autobusu pasirodė esą
sudėtinga visoje Centrinėje Amerikoje - visi jie važiuoja trumpais atsutmais ir
jei per dieną reik įveikt kokį 300 – 400 km, teks baladotis iš kaimo į kaimą ir
kas kart persėst vis į kitą autobusą. Teisybės dėlei reik pridurt, kad
egzistuoja specialiai turistams pritaikytas autobusas, kuris važiuoja ištisai
nuo Panamos iki Meksikos, bet kainuoja du, kartais tris kart brangiau, nei
važiuot savo jėgom su persėdimais, o mums kaip tik užėjo taupumo priepuolis,
tad nuo Kosta Rikos Monteverde iki Nikaragvos Granados nuvažiavom su šešiais
persdėdimais. Absoliutus dienos rekordas. Ir kaip galima spėt, tokia kelionė
prailgsta - Granadoje likom nakvot, juolab, kad čia visai toks charizmatiškas
kolonijinis miestelis.

Susiradom viešbutį,
kurio priimamasis, iš kliento pusės, atrodė labai juokingai. Tas bičas iš lnk
teliko, kur susirūpinęs klausia “kas šieną ravi”, savo kabinete galvą daužo į
labai panašią darbo priemonę.

Granada populiarus
turistų tikslas Nikaragvoj - visi čia traukia pasibastyt per padoriai
restauruotas kolonijinių laikų gatves, pažiopsoti į elegantiškas bažnyčias ir
pasidžiaugti didžiausio Nikaragvos ežero draugija. Iš kurio, beje, nieko gero,
nes tas purvinas ir maudynėm netinkamas. Populiarūs turistų užsiėmimai
Granadoje yra pasiplaukiojimas po ežero salas ir aplinkinių ugnikalnių
lankymas. Ugnikalniai neveikia, todėl geriau juos vadinti šiaip kalnais. Kurie
nėra nei įspūdingai aukšti, nei gražūs.

Labai neilgai
užtrukom tiek Granadoje, tiek pačioje Nikaragvoje, vėlgi su keletu persėdimų,
bet viso labo per vieną dieną nusigavom iki Hondūro sostinės Tegucigalpos. Čia
bus antras miestas per kelionę, kuriam buvom, bet neturim nė vienos nuotraukos.
Atvažiavom vakare, o tiek Pietinėje, tiek Centrinėje Amerikose pasitaiko toks
marazmas, kad mieste nėra autobusų stoties, todėl kiekviena kompanija turi po
atsirą terminalą, šį kart kaip tik tas atvejis, firmos terminalas buvo kažkur
miesto pakrašty. Jau buvo sutemę, taksu nuvažiavom iki vieno iš kelionių gide
pasiūlytų viešbutukų, pasidėjom lagaminus ir jau išsiruošėm eit ieškot maisto,
kai tarpduryje mus sustabdė šeimininkė ir paklausė, kur čia mes traukiam. “Valgyt”,
atsakėm, “Ne, ne, ne”  susirūpinusi
atsakė tetutė, “Labai pavojinga vakare vaikščiot”. Buvom skaitę, kad Hondūro
sostinė toli gražu ne pats saugiausias miestas šalyje, bet gal ne tiek, kad iki
kabako nueit negalima. Sulygom su šeiminke, kad eisim tik iki ledainės per
gatvę ir kažką suvalgę grįšim. Taip ir padarėm, o kol užsigerdami alum, graužėm
neįtin šviežius pyragus ledainėje (jei ledainė, tai nebūtinai vien ledai) mus
saugojo dideliu šautuvu pasidabinęs apsauginininkas. Ryte, kai jau ruošėmės išvažiuot,
apsidairę autobuso terminale, pastebėjom, kad ir čia kiekvienam darbuotuojui iš
po diržo styro po didžiulį revolverį, o apsaugininkai išvis iki dantų
ginkluoti. Išvis tokio dydžio šautuvus tik filmuose buvom matę. Gal jie čia
karui kokiam susiruošė…

Bet yra žymiai
pavojingesnė vieta Hondūre. Tai trys salos Karibų jūroje, kartu bendrai
telpančios po Bay Islands vardu. O pavojingiausia jų, į kurią ir važiavom,
vadinasi Utila. Pavojus čia toooli gražu ne tas, kad tave nušaus iš 9 kalibro
vamzdžio. Bet pavojus, vistik, gyvenimą atimantis. Tiesiog gali atsitikti taip,
kad nuvažiavęs į Utilą - negrįši. Visi čia užtrunka ilgiau, nei planuoja. Štai
Tatjana, kurios viešbutyje apsistojom, atvažiavo čia prieš dešimt metų, tada,
žinoma, ji neturėjo ketinimų čia gyventi. Keitlin, mūsų nardymo instruktorė,
čia jau treti metai. Jos 90 dienų (tiek galima keliauti šalyje kirtus sieną)
Hondūre limitas pasibaigė jau labai seniai.

(Nebijanti darbo tamsta mokytoja nardytoja)

Danielė, ji dirba bare Utiloje, į
salą atvažiavo trumpam aplanyti draugės prieš tris mėnesius. Deimienas, mūsų
nardymo klasiokas, be rimtesnės priežasties saloje kiurkso jau tris savaites.
Tomeris, su sudaužyta širdimi, kuris vos prieš mėnesį patraukė keliaut, Utiloje
jau kelios savaitės, jau keturias dienas vis ruošiasi išvažiuot, ir vis niekaip
neišeina. Aleksas, į Utilą atvažiavo atostogom vos savaitei ir jau grįžo atgal
į Prancūziją namo. Neseniai parašė emeilą, kad sausio mėnesį važiuos atgal į
Utilą. Kiekvienas turi savo istoriją ir kažkokią priežastį, kodėl jis čia
lieka.

(Vaizdas į kambario langą)

Kodėl čia? Priežastis
yra kompleksiška, tad pasvarstykim popietėje. Sala labai maža, 13 km ilgio ir 5
km pločio. Joje yra vienui vienas miestas, kuriame gyvena 90% iš visų 6000
salos gyventojų. Didesnė pusė tų gyventojų yra, legalūs arba ne, imigrantai.
Angliškai, kaip ir kitose Karibų jūros salose, kurios ilgus metus priklausė
britam, čia kalba visi, tik su labai juokingu akcentu. Didelis anglakalbių
imigrantų kiekis Caribbean English daro šiek tiek labiau suprantamą neangliškai
ausiai. Eismo saloje kaip ir nėra, nes nėra daug gatvių. Automobilių visai
nedaug, gatvėmis zuja motociklai ir golfo laukų mašinėlės.

(Pagrindinė gatvė)

Kasdien į salą
atplaukia ir išplaukia du keltai, kuriais atplaukia potencialūs imigrantai ir
išplaukia, nuo likusio gyvenimo nebėgantys ir prieglaudos saloje neieškantys.
Daugiau mažiau visas gyvenimas saloje sukasi apie nardymą, nes tam sąlygos yra
idealios: pilna koralų ir pilna žuvų. Karts nuo karto net ryklys praplaukia.
Išmokti nardyti gali bet kas, bet ne vien nardymo pagrindų čia žmonės ieško. Grubiai
tariant, egzistuoja trys narų pagal išsimokslinimą lygiai: naras atvirame
vandenyje, pažengęs naras (prasideda specializacijos) ir nardymo meistras.
Pirmo lygio žinios pasiekiamos mažiausiai per 3 dienas, kad tapti pažengusiu
reik pridėti dar dvi, na, o meistru įmanoma tapti per porą mėnesių, bet tuomet reiks
per galvą verstis. Kai jau tampi meistru, belieka išsilaikyti instruktoriaus
kursus ir vualia! Gali bet kuriame, nardomame pasaulio taške susirasti darbo.

(Davidas - valties kapitonas)

Nardymo
instruktorių atlyginimai, žinoma, kad priklauso nuo šalies, kurioje dirbama.
Girdėjom, kad lietuvių pamėgtoje Hurghadoje, ant Raudonosios jūros kranto,
instruktoriaus atlyginimas siekia apie tūkstantį eurų. Utiloje – apie tūkstantį,
pusantro USD. Čia nėra stebuklingo dydžio pajamos, bet kuomet visiškai neturi
išlaidų, tai visai normali suma. Narui nereikia nei batų, nei rūbų daugiau kaip
marškinėliai ir šortai, nereikia makiažo, nereikia kirptis, žodžiu, nereikia
nieko, kas išeina už asmeninės higienos ribų. Už buto šildymą irgi mokėt kaip

ir nereik. Gali gyvent ir dirbt Australijoje, gali Tailande, gali Hondūre,
Meksikoje, Jamaikoje, Egipte … galimybės plačios, gal net neišsemiamos. Yra
vienas nedidelis “bet” – reikės investuoti į išsilavinimą. Ir ta investicija
maksimum bus koks 6000 USD. Minimum – 2000. Kuo daugiau investuosi, tuo daugiau
pats žinosi, tuo daugiau galėsi apmokyti, tuo greičiau atsipirks naro išmonė -
viskas logiška. Ir jei tau koks 19 metų ir dar toli gražu šeima, butai, mašinos
ir universitetai, kurie gali palaukt, regis, visai sveikas sprendimas metus kitus,
trečius, ketvirtus panardyt labai su rūpesčiais nepersitempiant. Na, o jei tau
visai ne 19, gal labai gerai pasijausi išimtinai jaunoje kompanijoje. Jaunoje
ar amžiumi, ar širdimi. Labai lengvabūdiška, neatsakinga ir nerūpestinga - tokia
atmosfera Utiloje. Galima lengvai įklimpt.

(Vaizdas pro kambario langą)

Saloje niekad nieko
neįvyksta, niekas niekur neskuba, todėl viskas įvyksta laiku. Čia mažai žmonių,
todėl niekam nereikia telefonų. Nėra kino, nėra klubų, nėra dizainerių
krautuvių, tai reiškia, kad nėra nieko, kas gnybtų į užpakalį puikuotis,
atrodyti geriau, brangiau, puošniau. Nėra į ką lygiuotis. Nėra reikalo
lygiuotis. Čia nėra turtingų ir nėra ubagų (ubagai iki salų neatplaukia), nes
jei kas dirba, greičiausiai, kad taupo, gal bilietui namo, gal naro mokslams,
gal ateičiai. O taupyti yra iš ko, nes kiekvieną mielą dieną keltas atplukdo
tuziną potencialių nardymo studentų. Utiloje didelė konkurencija tarp mokyklų
ir dėl to kainos žemos, tai traukia mažabiudžetinių keliautojų segmentą ir jie,
kaip taisyklė, ir yra jauni, paprasti, linksmi ir galiausiai - laimingi. Taip
jau yra, kad kaip tik mažabiudžetininkai yra tie keliautojai, paskui kuriuos,
laikui bėgant, atslenka daug išleidžiantys. Normalu. Jei kažkas, kokiais 95
metais, būdamas 20-ties metų amžiaus, atrado pigų Tailandą, tai tas pat žmogus
per 10 metų baigęs Harvardą ir uždirbęs milijoną, grįš į Tailandą su
pakitusiais (išaugusiais) poreikiais, bet su tais pačiais lūkesčiais.
Pasistatys viešbutį sau, tada dar vieną draugam, draugų draugam ir kainos rajone
ims kilti. Hondūre žmonės su prabangesniais ketinimais ir reikalavimais plaukia
į kitą salą ir kol kas dar ten telpa, todėl Utila yra išimtinai backpacker’ių
taškas, o tiems, išskyrus, gerą nuotaiką su įspūdžiais daugiau nieko ir
nereikia. Na, dar stogo virš galvos, bet ne daugiau.

(Vaizdas į kambario duris)

Į salą atplaukėm su
tikslu įgyti naro atvirame vandenyje licenziją, bet mus labai nesunkiai įkalbėjo
praplėsti nardymo akiratį iki pažengusio lygio. Kol mokaisi ir nardai – nakvynė
nieko nekainuoja. Pabaigus mokslą – du deguonies balionai (čia reiškia - du nėrimai)
nemokamai. Per savaitę laiko išviso nėrėm trylika kartų, ir dar du nesiskaito, nes
buvo iki 10 metrų gylio, pačioj pradžioj, kai tik mokėmės kvėpuot po vandeniu.
Dienotvarkė kaip reikiant įtempta – ryte nardai, po pietų pamokėlė, vakare reik
paruošt namų darbus, o ryte anksti keltis ir t.t. Bet labai jau smagus tas
procesas.

Apie nardymą sužinojom visokių dalykų, kurių esant net neįtarėm, kaip
kad apsinuodijimas deguonimi, azoto dekompresija, azoto narkozė, visokie
dalykai apie slėgį ir t.t. Dabar mokam patys susiplanuot į kokį gylį ir kuriam
laikui galima nert, nors su orientacija po vandeniu dar kiek striuka. Kaip ir
navigacija pačiam vandenyje - visiškai nėr paprasta plūduriuot, taip kaip tau
norisi.

Tada kai jau
prakutom ir buvom pasirengę pežengusio naro mokslams, dar išmokom kaip elgtis
ir nardyti su praturtinto deguonies balionais. Tuose vietoj įprasto 21% O2
yra 32% arba daugiau. Deguonim balionai praturtinti ne tam, kad būtų
daugiau O2 ir dėl to skaniau kvėpuot, bet tam, kad būtų mažiau
azoto, bo tas, kai suslėgtas (o po vandeniu jis ir susislėgia) daro visokius
negerus dalykus, dėl to reikia riboti laiką vandenyje ir tarp nėrimų. Mažiau
azoto mišinyje – daugiau laiko po vandeniu. Daugiau laiko mums reikėjo, kad
atidžiau įsižiūrėt į nuskendusį laivą. Nėrėm 30 metrų gylyn ir ramiai
pasiplaukiojom po didelį laivą skenduolį. Laivas nuskandintas čia tyčia, taip
kartais daro, kai nori sukurt dirbtinį rifą. Kol buvo sveikas, tai buvo
vidutinio dydžio krovininis laivas, gal kokių 40 metrų ilgio, su dideliu bagažo
skyrium, nė kuo neypatingesnis nei tie, kur kiurkso Klaipėdoje. Tropiniuoe vandenyse
nuskendę laivai greit apželia visokiais margumais, kapitono kabinoje apsigyvena
kokia baisi žuvis, o ir šiaip, daiktai, kurie skirti naudoti virš vandens, po
vandeniu atrodo įspūdingai. Šiaip, daiktai ne tuose vietose, kur žmogaus protas
sako juos turint būti, ir tada, kai neerzina (kojinės šaldytuve gali erzint),
greičiausiai kelia žavėsį (ŠMC). Kažkoks išprotėjęs naras prieš kelis metus
nusitempė po vandeniu dviratį ir prirakino prie laivo kapitono bokštelio.
Siurrealizmas visiškas.

(Baracuda)

Kitas ypatingesnis
nei kiti nėrimai buvo naktį. Na, dėl to ir ypatingas, kad naktį. Kaip ir miške
gyvena gyviai, kurie aktyvūs naktį, taip ir po vandeniu gyvena visokie vėžiai,
aštunkojai ir krevetės, išlendantys tik naktimis. Taip ir plaukioji aklinoje
tamsoje, pasišviesdamas žibintuvėliu. Savotiška patirtis. Geriausia naktiniam
nardyme yra žaliai švytintis planktonas, kažkas neva mikroskopinių povandeninių
jonvabalių. Švytėti jie pradeda jei sudrumsti vandenį, tad išjungę savo
žibintus mojavom visaip rankom, kad švytėtų žaliai. Ir švytėjo. Vaizdas
neapsakomas…

(Būgnažuvė)

Tai, kad po
vandeniu yra sunku fotografuot ir dar reikia specialios įrangos -  lazda su dviem galais. Vienas galas tas, kad
negalim, kad ir šitam blog’e, pasidalint įspūdžiais taip sklandžiai. Ir nėra
nuotraukos, kad galėtum durt pirštu ir sakyt: “čia aš buvau, šitą aš mačiau”. Juolab,
kad po vandeniu per dešimt minučių gali pamatyti tiek visokių, nuotraukos
vertų, skirtingų gyvių, kiek sausumoje per dešimt dienų nepamatysi. Dėl
nuotraukų stygiaus gaila. Kita lazdos galą vertus, po vandeniu laikas yra
ribotas oro sanaudomis. Ir taip apžiūrėt, atsistebėt nespėji, jei dar pradėt
fotografuot, tai neliks laiko džiaugsmui.

(Kalmaras)

Kai susitaikai su tuo, kad neturi
su savim jokios kameros, kad ir kaip besinorėtų nieko negali nufotkint, tada atsipalaiduoji
ir plauki sau laimingas. Nuotraukos, kurių pridėjom, darytos ne mūsų, jos yra
iš nardymo mokyklos, iš tų vietų, kuriose nardėm ir tų žuvų ar padarų, kuriuos
matėm. Tiesa, mums buvo žiauriai pasisekę pamatyti tris retos rūšies rajas
sukančias ratus, tačiau vaizdas išliks tik mūsų atmintyje. Geru prisiminimu
liks ir Utila, buvo gaila išvažiuot, dar kokią savaitę kitą norėtūsi ir
panardyt ir pagyvent neskubant.

(Ungurys)

Su naro lincezijom,
aišku, keisis ir ateities atostogų planavimai. Dabar jau gaila šitiek
pražiopsotų galimybių Azijoje ir likusiam pasaulyje. Kita vertus, nardymas nėr
pigus smagumas, tad jei dar būtume nardę visur, kur buvo proga, vargu ar
tilptume į biudžetą, kuris ir taip jau dabar trupa, girgžda. Na, bet Meksikoje
dar nersim kartą kitą. Prieš tai dar reiks pravažiuoti per majų ir actekų
civilizacijų liekanas, pažiūrėt, ką tie gero pastatė ir kas dar liko.

Rodyk draugams

Komentarai (209)

  1. mama:

    nardykite,kiek norite,pacementuosime kas braska…..gal koki lobi rasite :)

  2. kazkieno sunus:

    Kaip gera tokias mamas turet :) Ech!

  3. blablabla:

    Visiskai sutinku, kad Utila privercia uzmirsti laika ir kazkokius gyvenimo rupescius. ir pats ten pasilikau dvigubai ilgiau nei planavau. labai gera atmosfera. O siaip smagiausia buvo kai is foto pamaciau kad apsistojote toje pacioje diving school kaip ir as pries kelis metus. jei dar meksikoje, rekomenduoju butinai nepraleisti Tulumo-the best beach kuri maciau visam pasaulyje

  4. Kaip musu malacius instruktorius Egipte is vandens isnires uzdainavo: "Life is dive, na na nanana". Po to seke eilutes: "Wife is knife", bet cia jau nebesvarbu :))

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