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San Pedro de Atacama, tai vėl Čilė

Iš Argentinos išvažiuojam
į Čilę, į San Pedro de Atacama kaimą. Niekam tikusi vieta gyventi. Dėl to, kad
Atacamos dykuma yra pati sausiausia vieta pasaulyje, sausenė už Saharą ir už
visą kitą sausą turtą, kurį turi Afrika. Sausumas matuojamas ne pagal tai, per
kiek laiko išdžiūna šlapi skalbiniai, bet pagal kritulių kiekį, ir taip jau
yra, kad Atacamoj nelyja. Bet vandens kaimelyje yra, tiesa ribotai ir ne visą
parą, bet prausimuisi užtenka. Kad jau nėra lietaus, tai niekas nesiparina dėl
stogų virš namų. Visos maitinimo ir gėrimo įstaigos yra be stogų, viešbučių
galima rasti ir su normaliais stogais, arba, kam norisi būti arčiau gamtos - su
šiaudinėm pastogėm. Mes nakvojom po stogu. Iš San Pedro kaimelio teturim vieną
nuotrauką su besiilsinčiais šunimis pagrindinėje kaimo gatvėje.

Kaimas gyvena vien
iš turizmo, t.y. kiekviena molinė pašiūrė yra arba viešbutis, arba kabakas.
Maisto kainos yra visiškai neprotingos. Jei pasakot litais, tai arbatos
puodelis 4-6 Lt. Piculka vienam žmogui 25 – 30 Lt ir t.t. Vilniuj, berods,
pigiau? Be aiškios priežasties užkeltos kainos nervina, tad jei kas gyvenime
judės link San Pedro kaimo, lai nusiperka maisto atsargų.
Kitas nelabai geras
dalykas - aukštis. San Pedro yra apie 2400 metrų virš jūros lygio. Tad naktimis
ujujuj kaip šalta. Dienomis vajajaj kaip karšta. Jei ryte kur išsiruoši - reik
apsirengt žieminę šimtasiūlę, pietums atėjus tenka ją sukišt kur nors iki
sutemų, kuomet šilumos vėl prireiks. “Dieną molis, vakare ir ryte brolis” toks
yra santykis su krosnimis, židiniais ir kitais šilumos šaltiniais San Pedre. Tokios klimato salygos yra palankios žvaigždėm stebėti, ką ir siūlo už tam tikrą mokestį turizmo agentūros. Per šiokį tokį žiūroną galima visai gerami matyti Saulės sistemos dujų milžinus ir galybę kitų, plika akim nematomų dangaus kūnų.

Ir ko gi važiuot į
tokią atšiaurią vietą? Trys vinys įsmeigti aplink šitą kaimą: flamingai,
geizeriai ir smėlio kopos. Pradėkim nuo flamingų. Na, kad nuo jų pradėt pirmiausia
reikia iki jų nusigaut - čia ir vėl du variantai: turu arba išsinuomotu
automobiliu. Renkamės antrą variantą, bet yra vienas “bet” – kaina. Ir degalų
ir nuomos. Nuoma bus apie 300 Lt parai. Nieko sau, ane? Esmė tame, kad keliai (jei
tokie yra) nepravažiuojami, dažniausiai bekelė, todėl nuomai siūlomi tik
visokie Mitsubishi Pajero, Nissan Navara ir panašiai. Nauji naujutėliai. Dyzelis
kainuoja kaip mums išvažiuojant LT, t.y. apie 3,5 Lt už litrą. Kaip suprantam,
šis tas tėvynėje pasikeitė ir tokia kaina Čilėje, lyginant su Lietuva, yra
nedidelė. Kaip bebūtų, “Navara” valgo lygiai litrą dešimčiai km, todėl suma
susidaro.

Laimei susitikom
porą keliauninkų iš Austrijos, su kuriais susipažinom kažkur Argentinos
pietuose. Jie mielai pasirašė ant nuomos ir kainos per pusę, tad ekskursijas
pasidarėm patys. Pirmą dieną po visokių sudėtingų nuomos procedūrų pradėjom nuo
flamingų. Flamingai gyvena druskos dykumoje esančioje lagūnoje.

Labai keisti
paukščiai. Ir atrodo keistokai ir gyvenamą vietą keistą pasirinko. Nors ir
labai keista, bet druskinguose prūduose gyvena flamingų maistas - kažkokie mažuliukai
krabukai ir kiti beveik nematomi padarėliai. Flamingo snapas toks baisus ne
todėl, kad motina gamta sumanė pasišaipyt iš paukštuko, o todėl, kad snapas yra
sudėtingos struktūros su visokiais filtrais, kad prakošti vandenį ir sugaudyti
maistingus kirmėliukus. Taip vat ir gyena flamingai, stypsodami ant savo laibų
kojų, visą dieną įmerkę galvą į vandenį, gaudydami mikroskopinius vėžiagyvius.

Šioje
lagūnoje gyvena trys flamingų rūšys, jei neesi paukščių mylėtojas ir žinovas, tai
skirtumo vienos rūšies nuo kitos nelabai įžiūrėsi. Bet visos trys rūšys labiau
baltos nei rožinės, o mes jau galvojom, kad paukštukai bus tokie pat ryškūs,
kaip Patagonijoje, bet šie greičiausiai nuo druskos išbluko. Ryškiausia spalva
yra po sparnais ir matosi tik tada, kai flamingas skrenda iš vieno prūdo į kitą
ar kur kitur savais reikalais.

Ilgai mes kiurksojom prie flamingų, o planuose
buvo dar dvi lagūnos. Tačiau bevažiuojant pasiklydom, du žemėlapiai, kuriuos
turėjom, kartais visai prasilenkdavo su realybe, ženklų tik vienas kitas, o
dykuma labai vienoda. Kelių keliukų baisiai daug, bo vietiniai nesivargina
važinėti vėžiomis, jei galima nusukt iš kelio ir nuvažiuot kaip nors tiesiau.
Šiaip, visi keliai buvo labai tiesūs tą dieną, dykumoje gali pasukt kur nori,
kada nori, jei tik manai, kad taip bus greičiau. Galiausiai išvažiavom iš
dykumos ir prasidėjo kalnai, viskas panašu į tai, ką prieš kelias dienas matėm
Argentinoje.

Bekelė sudėtinga net su mūsų ,,autobuso” visais varomais ratais,
purtė purtė, kratė kratė. Pagrindinis landšafto skirtumas nuo jau aprašytos
Argentinos šiaurės yra ugnikalniai. Visi jie labai dideli, labai aukšti, o
labiausiai į dangų pasistiebę yra apie 6000 m aukščio. Visi iki vieno yra
neveikiantys, bet per kažkokias žinias girdėjom, kad vienas toks neveikiantis,
toje pačioje Čilėje, pradėjo dūmyti. Niekad negali žinot, ką sugalvos
ugnikalnis. Draugas iš Austrijos, vardu Simonas, sakė, kad šioje dykumoje yra
bandomi robotai, keliausiantys į Marsą. Negalėjom patikėt, todėl greitai
nuskridom į Marsą ir patikrinom. Štai viena nuotrauka iš Marso.

Grižę iš Marso atgal į Čilę, privažiavom sunkiai ieškotą
Miscanti lagūną. Saulė jau leidosi, tad oras labai sparčiai žvarbo. Pastipinėjom
šen bei ten, ir išskyrūs lamų ištryptą smėlį nieko neradom. Sėdom važiuot
atgal, kažkur pakeliui pažiūrėjom saulėlydį, po kurio labai tamsiai važiavom
nakvot į San Pedro kaimą.

Kitą rytą anksti kėlėmės
kelionei pas geizerius. Kelias žadėjo būti dar blogesnis, vingiuotesnis ir
sudėtingesnis. Taip ir buvo. Bet juk nėra to blogo, Gražina su dauge iš
Austrijos, kurios vardas Barbara, nutarė, kad mašinos vibracija yra ne kas kita,
kaip puikus anticeliulitis masažas.

Kratėmės per
dykumą, tada kratėmės per kalnus. Pirmas dalykas, iš kurio juokėmės - tai viscacha. Labai juokingi padarai lakstantys per kelią
arba pikta lemiančiomis akimis stebintys iš už akmens. Gal iš pirmo žvilgnsio
šitas padaras ir panašus į triušį, bet uodega yra kiek ilgensnė ir kojos
trumpesnės, tik greitis ir staigumas yra tas pat. Visiškai neįtikėtina, kokiu
greičiu nuo akmens ant akmens šis kailio kamuoliukas nušuoliuoja kur pasislėpti.

Kelias vis sukosi
aukštyn, stabtelėjom parytinei nuotraukai prie užšalusio prūdo. Vargšai paukšteliai
slidinėjo ant ledo su nekantrumu laukdami saulės, kuri ištirpdytų ledą ir visi
galėtų prisiėst kirmėliukų.

Neturėjom jokio matuoklio, kad susigaudyt kaip
aukštai užvažiavom, bet matyt, kad labai aukštai, nes galva šiek tiek sukosi,
apsunko vaikščioti ir Danieliui netrukus teko susileisti ibuprofeno, kad kas
žingsnį niekas vinimis nekaltų į galvą.

Visi turai iš San
Pedro, važiuoja prie geizerių keliom valandom ankščiau nei kad važiavom mes.
Čia dėl to, kad kuo šalčiau yra, tuo daugiau matosi geizerio dūmo, tad kuomet
atvažiavom iki vietos, t.y. apie 9 ryte, visi autobusai su grupėmis jau buvo
išrūkę, tad tik keturiese buvom visam geizeryne.

Nė vienam mūsų iki šiol nebuvo
tekę matyt geizerių kur nors kitur, tad sunku lygint. Faktas, kad šie nėra nei
didžiausi, nei įspūdingiausi, bet kaip ten bebūtų, labai gailėjomės nepasiėmę
kiaušinių - laisvai būtume išsivirę pusryčiams, vanduo įkaitęs beveik iki
virimo temperatūros.

Labai didelė smagumo dalis lankant geizerius yra
burbuliavimai ir panašūs garsai. Jautiesi beveik puode, dūmai aplink,
kunkuliavimas… Tik vėliau pasiskaitėm, kad gal nėra labai gerai kvėpuot tais
dūmais, kažkokių ten nuodingų dujų gali būt, na, bet likom gyvi sveiki.
Danieliui kaip tik atrodė, kad mineralai yra labai sveikia.

Todėl jis mirkė
kojas karštam vandens baseine, o draugai austrai susigundė net išsimaudyt.
Geizeriai buvo aukštai kalnuose ir oras buvo visai žvarbus net ir saulei
plieskiant. Mes minties maudytis atsisakėm – nes vandeny - šilta, bet iš išlipus
turėjo būt labai sunku. Mūsų draugai nespiegė, jie žmonės santūrūs, bet
išsidavė, kad išlindimas buvo visiškai nemalonus procesas. Na, bet jie gali
pasigirti išsimaudę kažkur 4 km aukštyje. Čia tuo atveju, jei kada nors, kur
nors užeis diskusija apie tai, kas maudėsi aukščiau…

Važiavome toliau
per Atacamos kalnus ir buvo gražu. Visokio gero matėm - aukštų kalnų, snieguotų
viršūnių, asilų ir lamų. Gal, jei kas atvažiuotų iš Čilės į Lietuvą turistaut,
tai pamatęs mūsų žalmarges imtų jas fotografuot ir šiaip džiaugtūsi tokią
egzotiką pamatęs.

Taip ir mes džiaugėmės naminėmis lamomis, kurios gal kiek
baigštesnės už lietuviškąsias žalmarges, bet fotogrofuojamos nesipriešino.
Žiūrint į bandą greitai išaiškėjo, koks lama yra viršininkas ir kokia lama yra
pati gražiausia. Iš povyzos, auskraų ir žvilgsnio buvo aišku, kad lama blondinė
labai savim pasitiki ir visoje bandoje nejaučia konkurencijos.

Kažkur smėlio
dykuma beklaidžiodami visais keturiais varomais ratais privažiavom kaimą.
Kažkokia informacinė lenta skelbė kaimo pavadinimą, kad kaime gyvena 500 su
trupučiu žmonių ir jie užsiima sodininkyste. Ką jie čia daro iš tiesų, ką
dirba, kaip gyvena, o svarbiausia, kodėl gyvena čia, liks paslaptimi. Kaip ir
liks paslaptimi, kur šitas kaimas yra, nes niekas čia tyčia nevažiuos, o
netyčia nesuras, čia tik mes tokie laimingi buvom. Kaime kaip tik buvo
sekmadienine fiesta, kaimiečiai muzikontai grojo trimitais ir nešė kažkokius
kryžius.

Dar skraidė vienas kitas kolibris, kuriuos labai jau sunku sugaut
kadre, bo jie baisiai vikrūs ir juda atsitiktinėm kryptim. Bet su šiek tiek
pastangų viskas įmanoma.

Gražina pavyko nutraukti ant šakos tupintį kolibrį ir
nesulaukus nei kaimiečių, nei kryžių ateinant arčiau, išvažiavom žiūrėt
saulėlydžio į “mėnulio slėniu” vadinamą vietą. Važiavom, lėkėm per bekeles kiek
galėjom, bet nespėjom… “Moon Valley” yra labai populiari vieta Atacamoj,
pirmiausia dėl didžiulių smėlio kopų, tik tas smėlis ne toks kaip Nidoje, bet
pilkai rudas, atrodo, kad nešvarus.

Kažkada baisiai seniai ši vieta buvo jūros
ar kažkokio priešistorinio vandens telkinio dugnas, dabar, po milijono metų ar
kažkas tokio, kai vanduo išgaravo ar ištekėjo, o dugnas liko, nudienos žmonės
pamanė, kad kraštovaizdis čia panašus kaip mėnulyje, iš ten ir slėnio
pavadinimas.

Vieta labai lengvai prieinama, todėl daugybė žmonių čia susirenka
vakarais žiūrėt kaip leidžiasi saulė. Kad jau pavėlavom, neliko nieko kito,
kaip atvažiuot dar kartą ryte, kuomet saulė pateka. Gal ir kvaila mintis, juk
saulėtekiai yra kokstai popsas, sekmadienio pageidavimų koncerto muzikiniams
sveikiniams. Kai kučinskas suokia pagal fonogramą apie meilę, jo plikę kedena
gintarinis vėjas, baltijoje pateka saulė … ir šešiolika anūkų jubliejaus
proga sveikina močiutę. Bet tarkim, kad jei esi kažkur dykumoje, aukštai ant
kalno, tai saulėtekis yra ne popsas, o graži gamta, Žemės ir Saulės santykis ar
kažkas poetiško (vėl poezija !?!).

Atvažiavom anksti
ryte (tiksliau naktį) ir kaip vėliau paaiškėjo - dviem valandom per anksti.
Buvo šalta, tamsu ir nesitikėjo, kad saulė išvis patekės. Kažkiek laiko
pasedėjom mašinoje, su šiltu vėjeliu.
Kai danguje jau ėmė
brėkšti, kopėm ant kopos, atsisėdom ant uolos ir laukėm. Kol laukėm, matėm
gražų mėnulio žiedą, labai trumpai, bet labai jau dailiai. Tada beliko laukt
kol išlys saulė. Išlindo, aišku, kaip gi kitaip.

Kadangi buvo
ankstus rytas ir dar turėjom keletą valandų iki automobilio grąžinimo,
nusprendėm aplankyti dar vieną apylinkės ,,must see” – kažkokius senovinių žmonių
gyvenvietės griuvenas. Skamba nelabai įspūdingai, tad ir vaizdas buvo
atitinkamas. Guodė tik tai, kad bent jau nereikėjo mokėti įėjimo mokesčio (10
Lt žmogui), nes atvažiavom dar iki atsidarant bilietų langeliui. Nekaži kaip
čia viskas atrodė, bet parašyta, kad iškasenos labai labai senos.

Sėkmingai grąžinę
automobilį dar turėjom keletą valandų prabimbinėti, o vakare autobusu
išvažiavom link Peru.

Rodyk draugams

Komentarai (155)

  1. Elvis:

    Yo, čia spauda praneša apie potvynius ir liūtis Čilėje ir like about tas vietas. Nenuplovė ten jūsų? :)

  2. kaip visada, labai smagus reportazas (: tiek daug visko prirasot tai jei ir norejau kazko pradzioje paklausti tai perskaicius iki pabaigos uzmirshtu ((:

  3. Danielius:

    Elvi, blogas nuo realybes atsilieka savaite kita, tai praziopsojom ir ugnikalnius, ir liutis, jei tokios kazkur yra:) Nenuplove musu, jau pravaziavom visa Peru (dar ner ne vieno iraso!), atvaziavom i Ekvadora ir gamtines negandos nepuola…

  4. O, ekvadoras tai pusiaujas gi, saule virs galvos turetu but;) o nuo dregmes plaukai garbanotis pradeda :D Ir dar visai visai ne i tema pridesiu (su viltim kad yra interesantu) - ajajai koks geras desperate housewives 4 sezonas, vakar paskutine serija maciau:)))

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